Danny got out of the military in 2008 and later found surf therapy when he attended an Operation Surf event where he was inspired to learn how to surf when he witnessed a triple amputee preparing on the beach to hit the waves.
“Surfing is something I didn’t do as a kid growing up inland between Stockton and Sacramento, California, so I always wanted to learn how to do it,” he said. “I love that surfing is a mix of discipline and recklessness. We must be disciplined because if we are not paying attention the waves will knock us over. If we don’t charge, then we won’t have the fun we need to have. There needs to be a little bit of recklessness because no different from combat, if you’re in the wrong spot, you’re about to get wrecked.”
For Danny, surfing is a spiritual experience and describes how all the issues he faces in everyday life is washed off by the waves like a baptism.
Danny served in the US Army and completed two combat deployments in Iraq as a forward observer.
When he joined One More Wave, he was provided with his own custom surfboard featuring unique art from his time in service.
“I have a 240 SAW, the main weapon on the board because we used it in Baghdad and it has sentimental value," he said. "I remember the serial number on it, it reminds me that we didn’t do this alone, a tool to do my job.”
Now his tool from his previous career embodies the top of his customized surfboard providing a humbling reminder this is his new tool to achieve surf therapy.
“I also have the FISTer emblem, the majority of my commanders have been killed or injured and that is extraordinary and scary. I have the names of those KIA on top of the Army’s digital camo pattern because they compel me to live my best life and if I don’t I am spitting in their faces for them sacrificing their lives for me.”
Story by Matt Fratus